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For the two who voted for fic, there will be at some point; I need to catch up again. Fortunately, the post-season flood has dwindled down to a trickle!
Anyway: Broken Rib. I've got two projects on needles that illustrate what I'm talking about. Only the 2x2 rib is really "TV knitting" in that it doesn't take much concentration, but I like the look of the ticking stripe a lot.
All samples knitted in kitchen cotton on #9 (5.5 mm) needles. To make a washcloth of approximately 9-10" on a side will take approximately 100 yards. Adjust needle size and yardage for your project, if you want to make a scarf or something.
So. Broken rib. A two-row pattern that alternates knit and purl on one row and has all knit on the second, leading to a front side that looks like alternated rib and seed stitch. This is what Row 1: [K2, P2] looks like.

(Sorry the picture quality's a little wobbly; I'm taking photos of white on white with a mediocre camera.)
The pattern on the back is different, but fairly pronounced as well:

A couple of years ago, I'd read the rows by dotting nail polish on one needle, but now I find it an easy "read" on the needles. If you see the purl Vs, it's the knit across row. If you see an alternate tight row/loose row of bumps, you knit the loose ones and purl the tight ones. (Stare at the second picture, it'll make sense.)
Always start and end with knit stitches, or it'll curl. I also use my usual chain edge for the first and last stitches:

There are a gazillion ways of getting a chain; the one I always use (because it's least likely to fall off the needle) is:
LAST STITCH: Bring yarn forward, slip stitch knitwise
FIRST STITCH: Knit through back loop
Now! All this babble and you still don't know what I mean by "ticking stripe." I mean the kind of color stripes you see on ticking fabric - a thin stripe, a thick stripe, and a thin stripe, then a length of background fabric. When you translate K2 P2 into P1, K1, P2, K1, P1, and treat it as a broken rib, it looks like this:

tl;dr:
BROKEN RIB 2x2:
Cast on 38 stitches.
Row 1: K1tbl *K2, P2* repeat ** to last 3 stitches, then K2, bring yarn forward, slip last stitch as if to knit
Row 2: K1tbl, knit across to last stitch, bring yarn forward and slip last stitch knitwise
Repeat these two rows until your project is big enough.
BROKEN RIB, TICKING STRIPE:
Cast on 38 stitches.
Knit 3 garter rows, remembering to knit first stitch through back loop and slip last stitch knitwise
Row 1: K1tbl, k3, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k3, bring yarn forward, slip last stitch as if to knit (If you've got those pink and blue stitch markers, it would be useful to put a pink one before the first P1 of each pattern repeat for "pattern" and a blue after the second P1 to tell you to "knit until next pink marker")
Row 2: K1tbl, knit across to last stitch, bring yarn forward and slip last stitch knitwise
Anyway: Broken Rib. I've got two projects on needles that illustrate what I'm talking about. Only the 2x2 rib is really "TV knitting" in that it doesn't take much concentration, but I like the look of the ticking stripe a lot.
All samples knitted in kitchen cotton on #9 (5.5 mm) needles. To make a washcloth of approximately 9-10" on a side will take approximately 100 yards. Adjust needle size and yardage for your project, if you want to make a scarf or something.
So. Broken rib. A two-row pattern that alternates knit and purl on one row and has all knit on the second, leading to a front side that looks like alternated rib and seed stitch. This is what Row 1: [K2, P2] looks like.
(Sorry the picture quality's a little wobbly; I'm taking photos of white on white with a mediocre camera.)
The pattern on the back is different, but fairly pronounced as well:
A couple of years ago, I'd read the rows by dotting nail polish on one needle, but now I find it an easy "read" on the needles. If you see the purl Vs, it's the knit across row. If you see an alternate tight row/loose row of bumps, you knit the loose ones and purl the tight ones. (Stare at the second picture, it'll make sense.)
Always start and end with knit stitches, or it'll curl. I also use my usual chain edge for the first and last stitches:
There are a gazillion ways of getting a chain; the one I always use (because it's least likely to fall off the needle) is:
LAST STITCH: Bring yarn forward, slip stitch knitwise
FIRST STITCH: Knit through back loop
Now! All this babble and you still don't know what I mean by "ticking stripe." I mean the kind of color stripes you see on ticking fabric - a thin stripe, a thick stripe, and a thin stripe, then a length of background fabric. When you translate K2 P2 into P1, K1, P2, K1, P1, and treat it as a broken rib, it looks like this:
tl;dr:
BROKEN RIB 2x2:
Cast on 38 stitches.
Row 1: K1tbl *K2, P2* repeat ** to last 3 stitches, then K2, bring yarn forward, slip last stitch as if to knit
Row 2: K1tbl, knit across to last stitch, bring yarn forward and slip last stitch knitwise
Repeat these two rows until your project is big enough.
BROKEN RIB, TICKING STRIPE:
Cast on 38 stitches.
Knit 3 garter rows, remembering to knit first stitch through back loop and slip last stitch knitwise
Row 1: K1tbl, k3, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k3, bring yarn forward, slip last stitch as if to knit (If you've got those pink and blue stitch markers, it would be useful to put a pink one before the first P1 of each pattern repeat for "pattern" and a blue after the second P1 to tell you to "knit until next pink marker")
Row 2: K1tbl, knit across to last stitch, bring yarn forward and slip last stitch knitwise